Jewelry-pin and process of making same.



B. E. E-LDRED.

JEWELRY PIN AND PROCESS OF MAKING SAME. APPLICATION FILED N0v.10. 1914.

v 7 1,269,824. Pateated Dec: 26,1916.

Whueouo @W AM? M EW Wan/13 WNTTED %TT% BYRON E. ELDRED, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR T0 THE COMMERCIAL RESEARCH COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

PATENT JEWELRY-PIN AND PROCESS OF MAKING SAME.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. as, rare.

Application filed November 10, 1914. Serial No. 871,316.

T 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that I, BYRON E. Enonnn, a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Jewelry Pins and Processes of Making Same, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to jewelry pins and process of making same; and it comprises as a new article of manufacture a jewelers fastening element comprising a pin-like shaft composed of noble metal, such as gold, silver or platinum, but particularly platinum, containing a metallically united core of stiff and strong metal such as nickel, cobalt, iron, nickel steel, etc., said core extending axially along a portion but not all of the length of said shaft; and it further comprises a process of making such articles wherein an assembled wire-like body composed of a core of stiff and strong metal provided with a sheath of noble metal is cut in appropriate lengths, a length provided with an end element of the metal of the sheath by butt welding, which is best done electrically, and the end element then pointed or otherwise shaped; all as more fully hereinafter set forth and as claimed.

Fastening elements for some jewelry purposes have to meet conditions of strength and stifiness which cannot well be met in the noble metals, gold, silver and platinum, without using unduly heavy material; and in some cases not at all. This is particularly true of platinum which cannot well be alloyed with baser, strength-giving metals as can be done with silver and gold. Platinum may be alloyed with iridium for the sake of strength, but even with large percentages of that metal it does not acquire all the strength and stiffness desired, While the stronger iridium-platinum alloys are not ductile enough to permit ready working. Iridium-hardened platinum in fact is often rather brittle.

While the present invention is applicable to many other fastening elements, such as the metal fingers holding gems in ring settings, I shall more particularly describe it with regard to what are known in the trade as pin tongues; the pin which goes in the back of brooches, scarf pins, etc. In long bar pins a relatively long pin tongue is used. With a platinum setting, on account of the softness of the metal it has been necessary to use a large pin and a pin of a high iridium alloy to secure the required stiffness. The same is true of the pins of scarf pins. But these large pins are not only costly but clumsy in appearance and necessitate large punctures in the garments. Most of the strength in these pins is required in their middle as it is here bending takes place. Bending in one of these pin tongues is of course highly undesirable.

I have found that I can secure the desired results by using a wire of platinum containing an axial core of nickel, cobalt, steel, nickel steel, etc.; the two metals being welded together. I find the nickel steels particularly advantageous. The weld union between core and sheath is in substance necessary for such an article as this which is to be both strong and small. Several ways of effecting the weld may be used; as for instance that described in my Patent, No. 1,048,576, Where a core of nickel steel or the like is slipped into a sleeve of platinum and the assemblage heated through the platinum until the nickel steel core presents the appearance of incipient liquefaction upon its surface, whereupon the heating is ceased and the assemblage allowed to cool quickly. For the purpose of observation, a portion of the core may be left protruding beyond the end of the platinum sleeve. Gold and silver reinforced with a core of stiff and strong metal may be made in the same way. The metals so joined are permanently and securely united by an autogenous union at all points between their meeting surfaces; probably through a layer of an alloy of the two metals. The joined metals may be drawn, swaged and otherwise worked like a single metal. The metals may also be joined by hot-swaging. A wire rod made as described may be swaged down to any size desired; including the size appropriate for tongue pins. The wire made as stated howi ever is not of itself satisfactory for making pin tongues since when it is cut into lengths the end of the nickel steel or the like is exposed, nor can a good point he placed upon the pin by filing or otherwise shaping. Filing to shape exposes more of the core or base of stiff and strong metal which will oxidize in time and mark the fabrics. In jewelry articles no exposure of base metal is permissible.

therefore I make an axially reinforced wirev In the present invention in the manner described, or an equivalent manner and cut the WlIi-B. lnto appropriate lengths for pin tongues of the kind desired.

factory. The butt welded end is turned, or

filed smooth, and the whole once more drawn through dies. 1 now have a wire body which in its mid portion is axially reinforced by a stiff and str ng metal but which at one or both ends carries a prolongation of the surfacing metal; in the described case a prolongation of platinum. The complete wire body may then be further reduced in gage by drawing or swaging to prolong the noble metal portion farther beyond the ends of the axial core. in this drawing the end, or ends, of noble metal may be simultaneously pointed or otherwise shaped; or the point may be made by any of the usual swaging or pointing machines; or the wire body may be filed to a point if desired.

Using such a pin tongue on a brooch, it may be made of as small diameter as may be desired, with concomitant reduction of the size of puncture in the fabric which it will cause in use while it will have a core of stiff and strong metal in the location where bending of the pin is apt to occur; in the middle. The point, and also the other end if desired, may be of pure platinum or of platinum alloyed with iridium. As no' bending usually comes on the point of the pin the prolongation of the axial stiff and strong metal core thither is not necessary.

In the accompanying drawings I have shown, an article of the kind described.

In this showing, Figure 1 is a side elevation of a bar pin, Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section through the pin tongue on an enlarged scale, and Fig. 3 is a cross section through the pin tongue intermediate its ends on a greatly exaggerated scale.

The pm is provided with the pin tongue 1 having the looped end 2 for pivotal connection at'3 to the body 4... Usually this base is of platinum and usually has gems set therein. The base or core 5 of the pin is coated with platinum, gold or silver 6. At one end it is provided with the pointed prolongation 7 of the same metal as the coating but butt Welded to the body of the pin tongues along line 8. As shown, at the Copies of this patent may be obtained for other end the pin is provided with a similar layer 9 of the same'metal as the coating 5.

Element 5 is. marked on the drawing as nickel steel but may be of nickel, cobalt, ordinary or special steelor other stiff and strong metal of the iron class. Element 6 marked on the drawingas platinum may be gold or silver. r

The prongs or fingers used in gem settings may be of similar material and similarly made save that in this case instead of a pointed end there will be an end adapted for clasping the gem. f

lVhat Iclaim is 1. As a new article of manufacture, a jewelry pin comprising an elongated body of noble metal containing a core of stiff and strong metal united thereto, said core being located axially of said body and extending nearly but not quite to its end, and the point of said pm being wholly of noble metal.

2. As a new article of manufacture, a

3'. As a'new article of manufacture, a

' jewelry pin comprising an elongated body of platinum centainmg a core of nickel steel united thereto, said core being located axially of said body and extending nearly but not quite to its end, andthe point of said pin being wholly of platinum.

4-. The process of making jewelers pins which comprises producing wire of noble metal. with a-core of stiff and strong metal welded thereto, uniting to the end a prolongation of the same noble metal and shaping such united end to adapt the article for fastening purposes.

5. The process of making jewelers pins which comprises producing a wire of platinum with core of stiff and strong metal united thereto, uniting to the end a prolongation of platinum and shaping such united end to adapt the article for fastening purposes.

6. The process of making jewelers pins which comprises producing a wire of platinum with a core of nickel steel united thereto, uniting. to the end a prolongation of platinum and shaping such united end to adapt the article for fastening purposes.

In testimony whereof, afhx my signature in the presence of two subscribing witnesses. 7

Witnesses:

R. l/V. EARLE, RITA WEISS.

five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of intents, Washington, D. 0. 

